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  • Eye Prefer Paris is an ex-New Yorkers insiders guide to Paris. Richard Nahem writes his blog from his fabulous 18th century apartment in the fashionable Marais district of Paris

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May 08, 2008

Courtyard Delight

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I went to my dentist yesterday for a painful experience, cleaning my teeth, and left with a pleasant one, finding a lovely new courtyard in his building. The dentist’s office is in a residential 18th century building next to the Etienne Marcel metro station, bordering the commercial Les Halles area. The building is pretty non-descript from the outside but once inside there is the quaintest courtyard with a country setting. A private terrase is surrounded by bottle green iron fence festooned with the lushest ivy. Around the rest of the courtyard were window boxes in bloom and flowering potted plants. A young woman was feverishly planting away and I can see the plants and flowers were her pride and joy. I love discovering new finds like this and I always tell my tour clients some of the most beautiful Paris sites are the ones hidden behind the big doors in these courtyards.

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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

May 01, 2008

Le Premier Mai

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Today is May day/le premier Mai, one of the most important holidays on the French calendar. It’s their version of Labor Day in the U. S., a workman’s holiday. All of Paris is closed including museums, shops and even my Club Med Gym (can’t work off those calories from my big dinner last night). One of the traditions of this holiday is to give friends and family a Lily of the Valley plant or stem. The tradition started on May 1 1562, when King Charles IX received one as a lucky charm and each year after that he offered them to the ladies of the court.

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Hundreds of stands are set up all over the city selling the white, fragrant lovelies and many organizations raise money by selling them because they are exempt from paying tax on them.

I bought mine from a cute young girl sporting a stylish silver studded black cap in front of the St. Paul church (pictured above).

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A Version in Chocolate

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In My Apartment

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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

April 28, 2008

Fractional Ownership:How to Make the Paris Dream Come True

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Tour clients are always asking me about how they would go about buying or renting an apartment here. Like me before I moved here, they dream of having an apartment in Paris. I recently found out that there is a way to own an apartment without the hassle of dealing with the French real estate system, which can be treacherous sometimes.

It’s called fractional ownership and is similar to a time-share, except that fractional owners actually own a proportional share of the title of the property. You purchase a four-week ownership per year (or more weeks if you like) and it can be a fixed time or flexible, depending on what kind of plan you buy into. The newly renovated, luxurious apartments come with amenities like dishwasher, washer & dryer, gourmet kitchen stocked with food & wine before you arrive if you wish, secured storage, concierge services, air conditioning and a laptop computer. They are located in upscale, residential, and central neighborhoods including the 6th, 7th, or 4th arr.

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There are two companies I highly recommend that specialize in fractional ownership and I have met the owners. The first is Fractional Paris and right now they are offering ownership at 7 rue Mahler in the Marais, right across the street from moi. The property is a meticulously renovated, well-appointed two-bedroom apartment that sleeps six with a private terrace and two full bathrooms.

The other company is Paris Pied a Terre, owned by Walid and Charla Halabi. Right now they are offering three properties, a one, two, or three bedroom apartment located in the 6th and 7th arr. The décor is sleek, modern but homey and no expense has been spared in the renovation.

Price start at $142,000 for a one-bedroom, 1/12th share (one month). Ownership is expressly designed for investors outside of France.

The best reason of all to purchase a fractional ownership apartment in Paris is so you can take an Eye Prefer Paris Tour at least once a year with me. If that’s not a good enough incentive, I don’t know what is.

http://www.fractionalparis.com- Ask for Laura
in France: 01 72 77 00 39, or 06 78 91 84 53, from the US: 917-779-9950
http://www.parispiedaterre.com- Ask for Walid +33-(0) 631170303

Please tell them Richard from Eye Prefer Paris sent you.

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If you buy this one, please invite me for a glass of Champagne


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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

April 07, 2008

Best of EPP:Ten Insider Tips for Paris Museums & Monuments

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I'm taking a blogging siesta for a few weeks and posting some of my favorite and your favorite former posts. Enjoy, and will have all new posts starting again on Monday, April 14.

Visiting Paris museums and monuments are the things you most want to do here. However, they can be crowded, overwhelming, and expensive. Here are 10 insider tips to make it smooth,efficient, and sometimes cheaper.

1. Go at Night
Some of the larger museums are open at night.
• The Louvre- Wednesday & Friday till 10PM( but they start chasing you out by 9:30PM)
• D’Orsay- Thursday till 9:45
• Quai de Branly- Thursday till 9:30PM
• Palais de Tokio- 11:30PM every night except Monday

2. Go Early
The Louvre opens at 9AM, so be an early bird and catch the Mona Lisa first

3. Buy Advance Tickets or a Museum Pass
You can buy advanced tickets in person or on the internet for most museums, monuments, and exhibits at Fnac

Museum Pass-If you plan on going to at least 2 museums a day, than a pass is a no-brainer and you cut through the lines.
Passes are good at over 50 museums & monuments in Paris & surrounding areas.
2 day Pass- 30 euros
4 Day Pass-45 euros
6 day Pass-60 euros
Available at most museums
Click here for official site www. Parismuseumpass.com

You can also order in advance and have passes delivered to your home or hotel for an additional cost.
http://www.gotoparis.net/musee.html

4.Fast Louvre Tickets
Inside the Carrousel de Louvre (the shopping mall in the Louvre) there is a Tabac that sells tickets.Closed on Tuesdays.

5.Metro Stop for the Louvre
The metro stop is Palais Royal-Musee de Louvre off the 1 & 9 lines, not the Louvre-Rivoli stop.

6.Free Admission
Many Paris museums are free on the first Sunday of the month. Click here for the list.

7. Small Museums with Free Admission
Some of the best Paris museums are small gems with free admission.
Click here for list- http://parisnotes.com/museums/parismuseums.html

8.Fastest Entry to Eiffel Tower
The fastest way to get into the Eiffel Tower and bypass the lines, is to make reservations at Altitude 95 restaurant on the first floor.
Instructions
• Call Altitude 95 @ 01 45 55 20 04 and make reservations as far in advance as possible .Ask for window seats. Average price per meal :50 euros per person.
• When you arrive, go to kiosk on the left between the legs of the tower, when you are facing the front.

9. Guided Tours of Louvre, D’Orsay, & Versailles
The most informative and efficient way to see The Louvre, D’Orsay, & Versailles is to go on a private or group tour.

Group Tours Given by the Museum
Louvre- Tours are in English and last 90 minutes.
Times: 11AM, 2PM, & 3:45PM everyday except Sundays & Tuesdays.
Cost: 5 euros in addition to entry fee.

Musee D’Orsay- Tours are in English and last 90 minutes.
Times: 11:30AM &2:30PM everyday except Monday.
Cost: 7.50 euros in addition to entry fee.

Versailles- Tours of private rooms are in English and last 90 minutes.
Times: 11AM, 1PM, 2PM, & 3:45PM everyday.
Cost: 7.50 euros in addition to entry fee.

I highly advise tours with a private guide and can recommend some excellent, very experienced ones. Email me and I will send you their information.

10. Best View of Paris-Bell Tower at Notre Dame
Climb 250 steps up the bell tower and see where Quasimodo rang those bells. Most experts and historians say this is the best view of Paris, showing mostly the older part of the city.


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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about including small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

 

March 26, 2008

Paris Street Scenes

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Place de Andre Malraux is a square bordered by rue St. Honoré, Avenue de l’Opera, and Place Colette with the loveliest fountain. It was a spring-like day and I couldn’t resist splashing my face with the cool water and of course taking some photos.

Andre Malraux, was statesman, writer, and the first Ministry of culture under Charles DeGaulle in the 1960’s. I researched the history of the square but couldn't find anything. If anyone knows anything about it, please let me know in the comments section.

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Below is a magnificent shot of a sunset on the Place Madeleine right after a rainstorm.

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NEWSFLASH: Paris from NYC in Spring, from $239
NEW YORK--MARCH 20, 2008-- For travel between March 25 and
May 15, Air France has reduced fares from New York to
Paris as low as $288 each way. This
sale must be booked by March 26.

The fare below is listed on Air France's Web site. But,
when we test-booked this deal, we often found prices that
are $30-$40 less in early April than what is listed below.

Sample fare
- New York-Paris ... $288

The sale fare includes fuel surcharges. Additional taxes
will be added in the final price.

For full details and to book this offer through Air
France's Web site, click here:
http://www.travelzoo.com/Newsflash.asp?384289

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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

March 04, 2008

L'Espace bien-etre at Origins

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As you all know by know I am just a pushover for any kind of massage, facial, bodywork, etc. So when my friend Katie, who is the manager of the Origins shop on St. Sulpice, invited me to test out one of their treatments at their wellness spa, she made my day, week, and month.

The first treatment was the Make a Difference facial. When I lived in New York, I used to go to an old school Hungarian facialist, Martha, every month at the Sherry Netherland Hotel for over 20 years. She was the greatest and most other facials I’ve had, never lived up to her special touch. Celine was my facialist and she took me upstairs to a relaxing and calm room for my treatment. The facial started with a face cleansing, and then followed with a another four steps that included a scrub, a mask, a shiatsu massage to the hands and arms, and a hydrating moisturizing serum. All the products Celine used were from the Organics shop, including two from the Never a Dull Moment line, the good enough to eat fruit enzyme cleanser and the Jericho rose mask, and finally the Perfect World white tea moisturizing serum.  When it was over, I felt relaxed but energized, my skin was tingly all over, and I looked a little younger. Martha, I am sad/happy to report you now have competition but luckily it’s an ocean away.

Feeling so good from my facial and never shy to ask for more in that department, I inquired if I could try some other treatments. She said yes (YEAH!), so last week, I went for a hot stone massage, which I never experienced before.
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The room was darker this time, and I noticed the black stones being heated in a special warming device. Eugenia, my masseuse, rubbed my body with the Organics oil of sage, cammomile, fennel, and jojoba, which smelled wonderful. I laid on my stomach first, and 6 stones in varying sizes were placed on my back and legs. The heat radiating from the stones relaxed my body, which was tense and sore from a tour earlier in the day. While the stones were working their magic, Eugenie firmly massaged me with her very warm hands, without too much vigor. I turned over on my back and laid on six more warm, relaxing stones. She then proceeded to my massage my  face and head, which felt amazing. The massage was not that intense, therefore I wasn’t as wiped out afterwards as I usually am from a deeper type treatment.

The prices were quite reasonable for the high quality treatments: the one-hour facial was 60 euros and the 55-minute massage was 65 euros.

I’m totally hooked now and I hope Katie invites me back for more.

L'espace bien-etre
Origins
30 rue St. Sulpice
Metro:St. Sulpice, Odeon
Tel. 01.56.81.08.02
Open Monday to Saturday, 10:30AM to 7:30PM
www.origins.com

In the New York Times I forgot to mention I was quoted in the New York Times last Thursday. There was an article in the style section about the new hit HBO series "In Treatment" with Gabriel Byrne, about a analyst one on one with his patients in real time. Check it out, I'm on page two. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/28/fashion/28BYRNE.html?_r=1&oref=slogin

 

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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour
includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.


Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

January 21, 2008

Belge Side Story

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My friend Claudia Budow from New York sent me this video the other day. It's truly one of the most hilarious and clever things I've seen in a long time.It's a take-off on West Side Story but set in Belgium.I won't tell you anymore. Enjoy and please let me know if you howled as much as I did in the comments section.
Thanks Claudia for the good laugh.

Click here to watch Belge Side Story

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January Special:All tours are 160 euros instead of 175 euros

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

January 14, 2008

Quirky Street Art

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I love the quirky street art in Paris and the other day I came across two that put a smile on my face.

The one above is a series of giant photos that were posted on a wall behind the Niki Saint Phalle sculpture pond across from the Pompidou Center. I love this average French Joe’s expressive face.
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The second are funny cartoon images with holiday messages etched on the windows of the La Perle bar on rue Vieille du Temple. This hipster hangout is tres popular with the 20-something-red wine drinking-too much smoking crowd.
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January Special:All tours are 160 euros instead of 175 euros

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

January 08, 2008

Ne Fumer Pas

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It’s official: there is no smoking allowed in public places including bars, restaurants, cafés, and clubs in France.

With all the predicted hysteria and protest, things seemed normal and sober when I went to my local café yesterday. The café still smelled of smoke (I think it will be months until the distinct odor is gone) but no one lit up or even tried. I am not a smoker and will now appreciate my clothes not smelling like a pack of Camel’s, but somehow I feel the corny yet romantic stereotype of a smoky café will disappear along with other French traditions. I thought that the outdoor cafes would reopen en masse to accommodate smokers, but they haven’t and the French seem to be taking it lying down (Oops! I hope they don’t smoke in bed).

Now I’m having romantic notions of large, angry protest groups marching down the rue de Rivoli or the Champs Elysees, carrying giant cigarette packs with simulated smoke coming out of them, screaming epithets like “I smoke, therefore I am”” or “No smoking, no life”.

Alas, I think my romantic notions will go up in smoke and the French will abide by the new rule, even though they will be grumbling.

Some related articles from The Herald Tribune

http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2007/12/31/europe/EU-GEN-France-Smoking-Ban.php

http://www.iht.com/articles/ap/2007/12/28/news/France-Smoking-Ban.php



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January Special:All tours are 160 euros instead of 175 euros

I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.
Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

December 15, 2007

I'm in the Herald Tribune

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At right, Vincent Gagliostro, a freelance video filmmaker, in Paris with his partner, Richard Nahem. When Gagliostro moved to France two years ago, he worked for a base of clients from the United States, but he is now trying to diversify to earn euros. (Richard Harbus for the International Herald Tribune)

The Herald Tribune has an excellent story by Doreen Carjaval on the cover of Saturday’s issue about expats getting paid in dollars and struggling with the bad euro exchange. There is a picture of me and my partner Vincent on page 13 and we are also in the story. (Sorry if I look a little different than my disco glory photo from the other day).I am sure I will be remembered for this quote:"When it comes to pastries," Nahem explained, "there's no price resistance for me."

Doreen interviewed us last week over a long and fruitful lunch at my favorite neighborhood restaurant Chez Janou. Below is a reprint of the article and I've higlighted the part about us. Enjoy!

Paid in dollars, expats struggle to make a living

By Doreen Carvajal Published: December 14, 2007

PARIS: Erica Nevins's faith in the dollar was shaken the moment she pressed a crumpled $1 bill into the hand of a little girl begging for money on the streets of Marrakesh, Morocco.

"I don't want this. This is nothing," Nevins recalled as the scornful reaction of the child, who demanded more.

Since then Nevins, an American fashion executive, has replayed that moment over and over in her head as she confronted the harsh reality of living on a dollar income in Paris and then moving to pricey London. "The absurdity of this is that it's so true," she said. "A dollar really means nothing. It's scary."

With plunging exchange rates, American expatriates whose pensions or incomes are paid in dollars are scrimping. No more dinners out when a bottle of Perrier for €3.50 translates to $5 and no more Christmas shopping binges when a shiny iPod for €159 is the equal of $230.

And ultimately some are moving to greener pastures that match the color of their money.

"Those that can hold out are holding their breath and we're hoping for a return of the dollar, but those that can't are going," said Susie Bondi, an American who has lived in Paris for 12 years, but is moving to Vienna in January with her husband, Fred, to stretch their pension dollars in a city with a lower cost of living.

The past six months have been anxious for expatriates, with the dollar sinking against the euro, the pound and currencies from the Czech koruna to the Costa Rican colón. Those declines are accelerating the flight of expatriates in Europe, according to tax attorneys who listen to the woes of clients who are giving up because they see no relief in sight.

The zeitgeist is best summed up by the rapper Jay-Z who last month released a music video of himself cruising the streets of New York in a shiny Bentley with a flash wad of €500 notes.

Even U.S. government employees are feeling the pinch in countries with strong currencies like the Czech Republic, where the koruna has gained 17 percent this year against the dollar.

Radio Free Europe, the U.S.-backed international broadcaster headquartered in Prague, is suddenly facing a housing crisis for many of its 500 employees. And the news organization's new chief executive, Jeffrey Gedmin, ranks the weak dollar with attacks on journalists around the world who have been kidnapped in Baghdad and jailed in Azerbaijan as one of the critical issue that it is facing.

"For me it's become an ethical issue," said Gedmin, who was in Washington this month lobbying U.S. legislators for relief and trying to raise funds privately to aid hard-hit employees. "I have a genuine ethical issue to take care of people who are trying hard to take care of their own countries."

Employees who have long been paid in dollars pumped the money into the local economy and to landlords who in the past gratefully accepted dollars when the currency was strong.

Now most of the organization's employees living in Prague are being pressured to convert rental contracts from dollars to korunas and have received notices about imminent rent increases. One landlord raised an employee's monthly charge from $1,000 to $1,500 and took away his basement storage space to rent it out.

The impact of the sagging dollar has been particularly acute for expatriates who live on fixed pensions paid in dollars or self-employed workers whose clients are largely based in the United States.

Josh Soski moved from San Francisco to Barcelona in September to start a freelance video production company that supplies clients like Current TV in the United States with short video features on European stories.

These days, he said, he finds himself sitting on his bed, with his head in his hands, obsessively checking currency rates on his laptop. "They pay us $2,500 for a piece, and you cash it in and it's €1,400 or less. That's shocking," said Soskin, who finds himself debating whether to splurge on a €3.50 bottle of water at the airport or indulge in a can of his favorite Mexican black beans at €4.

To survive and hedge currencies, Soskin is now scouting for European clients who will pay him in euros. Other self-employed workers - from medical translators to online entrepreneurs - are simply cutting off their American clients because it is no longer worth working for them.

Vincent Gagliostro is a graphic designer and freelance video filmmaker who left the New York advertising industry two years ago to settle in the Marais neighborhood in Paris with its promise of cheaper living that reduced his monthly housing costs from a $6,000 mortgage to an 18th-century apartment rental for €1,700. When he first moved to Paris, he said, he worked for a base of clients from the United States, but he is trying to diversify to earn euros.

"The dollar still heavily weighs on the quality of my life. As long as I continue to rely on at least 50 percent of my income with American clients, it's going to do that," Gagliostro said while dining on a simple €10 brasserie lunch of pasta and chicken.

Gagliostro's partner, Richard Nahem, a Brooklyn native, has also sought to supplement their income by offering customized tours of the Marais, but his new business, Eye Prefer Paris Tours, is dominated by Americans and Canadians who pay him in a mix of euros and dollars. To economize, he has cut back on his own indulgences, such as clothing purchases. But he cannot resist his favorite high-end patisserie, Gérard Mulot, where a chocolate éclair costs €2.80.

"When it comes to pastries," Nahem explained, "there's no price resistance for me."

Many companies with American executives posted abroad are starting to seek advice on how to deal with currency depreciation, according to Achim Mossman, managing director for international executive services for KPMG, a tax advisory firm. In the future, he expects more American companies to pay their employees abroad with local currency, and he is also advising companies to follow calculated formulas to measure the cost of living standards to make salary adjustments.

Some employees have successfully pressed their companies to shift from dollars to local currencies. Nevins, who was paid in dollars while living in Paris, changed her income to pounds when she moved to London earlier this year.

"I wouldn't be working for this company if I was paid in dollars," she said. But Nevins still cannot resist making constant mental calculations to measure the price of everyday purchases in London. "Everything from a cup of coffee to going to the movies is so much higher," she said. "An adult movie ticket can range up to $26 and in terms of the holiday season, my boyfriend and I are doing all our shopping online in the United States. We're not thinking of shopping here."

That kind of currency fever invades daily thinking, according to some expatriates, who cope by not thinking about exchanges. Others say the downward spiral has become a basic part of life.

One expatriate from Madrid recently received an e-mail from a relative in Costa Rica who wrote about the tragic circumstances surrounding the fatal heart attack of a cousin and the cremation of her remains. And then the correspondent closed with a simple last line: "And also, as normal, the dollar fell today against the colon."

 

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I am pleased as punch to announce the launch of Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which are 3-hour walking tours I will personally be leading. The Eye Prefer Paris Tour

includes many of the places I have written about such as small museums & galleries, restaurants, cafes & food markets, secret addresses, fashion & home boutiques, parks, and much more.

I look forward to meeting you on my tours and it will be my pleasure and delight to show you my insiders Paris.



Check it out at www.eyepreferparistours.com

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